Thanks to the SADC - Southern African Development Community - travelling between the countries of southern Africa is now easier, certainly for citizens of the SADC. This organisation based in Botswana's capital, Gaborone, started in 1980 to integrate and further develop cooperation of the social, economical, political and security issues of the countries lying in the southern part of Africa. On paper it sounds very similar to the European Union and Schengen area.
One of the industries to benefit from this cooperation and integration is travel. The best methods to travel in this part of the world is by air or road. Sure flying from A to B is faster, but alot of sights will simply be missed. I would recommend travelling by road through these fascinating countries and perhaps the best way is by rental car. Driving will involve covering vast distances so a long term rental will be needed. It is possible to buy a car then sell it at the end of the trip, but that would mean constant insurance issues when crossing borders. Car hire firms can do that for you for a fee. One hire firm I know that allows crossing borders with their vehicles is Hertz, a company with over 100 years experience in the car rental business. For about 1600ZAR (South African Rand) they will allow the hirer to take their vehicle into South Africa's neighbouring countries, except Zimbabwe at the moment. Travelling on land is by far the best way to travel and explore, and in southern Africa, with its abundance of wildlife, flora and fauna, and rivers, wetlands and national parks, covering that land by road is easily one of the best options. Namibia The name Namibia comes from the Namib desert. Apart from Etosha national park the entire country is dry, arid desert making it one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world with a population of over 2.5 million. In 1920 the League of Nations, now the United Nations, gave the administration of Namibia to South Africa (SA). This was seen as acceptable at the time as Namibia was a German colony until SA captured it in 1915. Namibia was called South West Africa from 1915 to 1990 when it gained independence from SA on 21 March 1990. Independence came after a long struggle with SA, especially when in 1948 the National Party of SA introduced apartheid in Namibia bringing racial injustice to the natives. Today Namibia is a stable democratic country with tourism being one of its biggest industries. Driving in Namibia is pretty easy as the sparse population gives rise to largely empty roads. It's important to note that alot of Namibian roads are not sealed. The exceptions are all B roads and some C roads are fully paved, the main arterial route being B1 which cuts through the spine of the country connecting the capital, Windhoek, to SA and Angola. If entering from SA there are two recommended routes. One being the start of the southern end of the arterial B1 at Noordoewer (Vioolsdrif in SA). The other is via Port Nolloth in SA and crossing the Orange river at Alexander Bay. This is probably the better route if driving to Luderitz as it is fully paved from Alexander Bay to Aus, where it connects with the paved B4 linking Luderitz with Keetmanshoop. The entire southern border of Namibia separates the country from SA along the Orange river. There is the C13 route linking Noordoewer with Rosh Pinah and cuts through the Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park running along the Orange river. However, about 100km between Aussenkehr and Sendelingsdrif the road is dirt track with corrugations. It's advisable to drive this route by 4WD vehicle. I hope this road does not get paved in the future as that would encourage mass tourism to a very attractive, peaceful part of Namibia that would inevitably be spoiled as a result. The peaceful surroundings attracts alot of wildlife to the river banks which blossom during the spring months. The main towns along Namibia's Atlantic coast are Luderitz and Swakomund. Being a former German colony it's reasonably expected to find German influences in Namibian towns and cities. Both towns can seem a welcome relief after cutting through the vast desert of the interior (the main highways to the towns intersect with the arterial corridor road B1). Luderitz has its charms with its colourful houses and landmark church - Felsenkirche. It even has its own Hollywood-style sign! A visit to the Goerke Haus museum is worth stopping for due its extracts documenting the town's history, though the museum is open for very limited hours (2 hours on weekdays between 2 and 4pm, and only one hour on weekends from 4 to 5pm). Another museum worth visiting is the Luderitz museum near the picturesque train station, but again only open on weekday afternoons. Around Luderitz you can find Shark Island Lighthouse and Agate beach, as well as the rugged coastline of the northern part of Sperrgebiet National Park. Swakomund is the larger of the two, and with the nearby port of Walvis Bay, is the more populated. Also it is regularly visited by tourists from Windhoek wanting some sea air during the weekend. The town has a nice beach promenade as well as the Swakomund museum if you're intrigued by the town's past. Travel to Walvis Bay and visit the Dunes Mall, or go to Lagoon Promenade road and get a glimpse of flocks of pink flamingos if you're lucky. Swakomund is usually used as a base to visit Dorob and Skeleton Coast national parks. The sheer vast remoteness and lack of people means the best way to visit is by 4WD vehicle, camping and taking a good amount of supplies. There are campsites with all the usual facilities like shower, electricity and water along the coast north of town. Speaking of which, the entire coastline of Namibia from its southern border with South Africa to its northern boundary with Angola is one national park after another. Some are more accessible than others but the Atlantic coast of Namibia is wild, vast and remote. I would highly suggest travelling to these parks on 4WD vehicle and taking plenty of supplies especially if visiting the more remote parts. Perhaps the only wet part of Namibia is the Etosha national park. The Etosha Pan is basically a huge watering hole and therefore a good spot to find plenty of Africa's famous wildlife including the 'Big Five'. Please note the main road through the park - C38 - is paved apart from between Okaukuejo and Namutoni where it is mainly dirt and gravel. There aren't too many halal eateries round here except for Steers near the train station and Aladdin Halal restaurant on Tobias Hainyeko in Swakomund. There is one mosque in Swakomund on Nonidas street opposite the Puma petrol station. Apart from the above Luderitz, Swakomund and Walvis Bay have some great seafood restaurants that shouldn't be missed with Swakomund having the largest selection. The capital Windhoek, Namibia's largest city, was a permanent settlement due to the presence of a hot spring. The city began to expand from 1840 but didn't really start to become an established city until about 1890 when Namibia became a German colony. One of the first examples of European settlement is the sandstone Lutheran Christus Church. Nearby is the Alte Feste, a former military complex that now houses military exhibits and an independence museum, and the Independence Memorial museum. If you're looking for halal food options the main choice is Steers. However, there is an independent restaurant called Captain DoRegos on Independence Avenue. They are not halal as standard but provide halal alternatives. Also there are 3 main mosques:
There are a couple of decent shopping malls such as Maerua Mall to get your shopping fix. The city is connected by the B1 highway, main train station served by the TransNamib railway and Eros international airport. The airport is well served as airlines like Qatar Airways connects Namibia to the Middle East and Asia, KLM to Europe, and other African airlines like South African, TAAG Angola and Ethiopian connecting the rest of the African continent. Botswana The landlocked country of Botswana, meaning 'Land of the Tswana', referring to the largest ethnic group, is a flat country constituting a population of 2.34 million and 70% coverage by the Kalahari desert. Its neighbours are South Africa to the south, Namibia west and north, and Zimbabwe to the east. It gained independence from Britain on 30 September 1966 and its main industries are mining, cattle and tourism. Tourism is big business in Botswana as the sparse population and countless game and national parks make it ideal for spotting wildlife, including the 'Big Five' - lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and Cape buffalo. One of the best places to spot these is Chobe National Park in the far north. Travelling there is easy as tourists arrive via Kasane international airport. The main highways of Botswana are in good condition and fully paved. And being a member of SADC it means travelling into Botswana overland is pretty straightforward. The good conditions of the main highways and lack of traffic make driving through, or much rather around, Botswana quite easy. There is the A1 covering the east between the capital Gabarone and Francistown. The A3 connecting the north, with the A33 spur heading to Kasane and Chobe NP. This route links Francistown and Maun with the Namibian border and Windhoek along the paved B6 in Namibia. Lastly the A2 connects with the A3 south of Ghanzi. It is actually the A2 that heads west towards Namibia and Windhoek. This highway effectively links Gabarone with Windhoek, the capitals of Botswana and Namibia respectively. The A1, A2 and A3 create an orbital route around the whole country, with the A33 and A35 spurs heading to northern Botswana and the Caprivi Strip in Namibia (the part of Namibia sandwiched between Angola, Zambia and Botswana). All the roads mentioned above are fully paved and so perfectly suitable for 2WD vehicles. The A35 though is narrow and has some potholes to contend with. My recommendation is starting from Gaborone and head north to Francistown and onto Kasane for Chobe NP. Then return but head west towards Maun, the stepping off point to visit the immense Okavango Delta. Also visiting the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is fairly easy from a Maun base. This park is roughly 900 square kilometres of salt pans that consist of hippos, zebras and baobab trees. Botswana is an easy country to visit with good international connections either by air or overland, and with a good road network travelling within it is quite straightforward too. A country that resembles the Australian outback but with more wildlife on offer is a nature and wildlife lover's paradise. Lesotho The mountainous Kingdom of Lesotho, as it is officially known, gained independence from the United Kingdom on 4 October 1966 when it went by the name of Basutoland from 1844. At over 30,000 square kms it is home to just over 2 million people with its capital Maseru in the north west. The name Lesotho loosely translates as 'Land of the Sotho'. It is the largest of only three landlocked countries surrounded by only one other country, and in Lesotho's case it is South Africa (SA). The other two being Vatican City and San Marino totally enclosed by Italy. Being high up in the Drakensberg mountains means Lesotho is much cooler than its surrounding South African regions, sometimes by as much as 10 degrees centigrade. This makes Lesotho a welcome retreat during the hot summers lower down in SA. Also being an SADC country visiting Lesotho is pretty easy. International flights serve the main airport in Maseru but being a small country and completely encircled by SA overland entry is quick and easy in literally all directions, even by rental vehicle. The Mohokare river acts as a natural boundary between Lesotho and SA, effectively separating Maseru from SA, and this is perhaps the best option to enter the country overland as the Maseru bridge links Maseru to Bloemfontein. Driving is the best option in Lesotho. Not only are the main highways all very well paved - A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5 - they all cut through spectacular mountain landscapes dotted with traditional villages and friendly locals. Even the A25 is fully paved and cuts through mountain passes, though this road has occasional pothole issues. Ironically the main highway linking Molumong to the Sani Pass is fully paved upto the border, beyond into SA it becomes a 4WD vehicle only route, though in the next few years this might change. This route should be taken if possible as it cuts through deep mountain valleys with some hairpin turns along the way. The Skeering-Basotho Cultural Centre is worth visiting to learn about Lesotho life, or a visit to the stunning Sehlabathebe National Park in the far south. If mountain passes are your thing then Lesotho has the answer. Apart from the northern lowlands the rest of the country is mountain valleys and pastures making for very photogenic driving. I am aware Hertz SA allow for their rental vehicles to drive into Lesotho from SA for a fee (around 1600 SA rand/ZAR). Muslim travellers will only find options in the capital Maseru. There are a couple of restaurants available. Desi Dara is cheap and cheerful but Al Zainab is the better option. A good place to enquire about halal eateries are the 5 mosques around town. These are:
Lesotho might not have a varied abundant wildlife scene but it makes up for that with its abundance of mountain valleys, vistas and villages. It provides an alternative aspect to the Drakensburg range outside South Africa, and being an independent nation means another stamp in your passport! Eswatini The land formerly known as Swaziland and officially named the Kingdom of Eswatini in 2018 is similar to Lesotho in that it is a small landlocked kingdom in southern Africa. Its eastern border is shared with Mozambique and all other borders shared with South Africa (SA). The main difference is it is less mountainous than Lesotho with the western half known as the Highvelds consisting of the foothills of the eastern Drakensburgs, and the eastern half (Lowvelds) being the plains that stretch out all the way to the Indian ocean via Mozambique. Currently there is only one airline, Airlink, that connects Eswatini to the outside world. And the recently built (2014) King Mswati III international airport is about 1.5 hours/90kms from the capital Mbabane, so abit of a long transfer but alot of the country can be viewed in just one airport trip. Entering with a rental car is possible, certainly with Hertz SA. Whilst on that subject the world famous Kruger National Park and the Mala Mala game reserve is north of Eswatini. Even though Johannesburg is the best gateway to Kruger, if driving from Durban for example why not cut through Eswatini enroute. The country has similar wildlife to Kruger and Mala Mala on offer, and by entering overland by rental vehicle you can travel at your own pace, plus get another country stamp in your passport. Any Muslim travellers will find most options in Mbabane and some in Manzini. As like SA Nandos, Steers and Spur Mbabane are halal. Some of the Indian restaurants are halal but caution maybe needed. A good place to enquire though are the mosques. The two main ones in Mbabane are Masjid Yusuf Mbabane in the city centre and Masjid Ezulwine in south Mbabane. Other decent mosques include Masjid Al Huda in Manzini and Nhlangano mosque in the south of the country. All these are purpose built and have good clean facilities. Mozambique A quick mention should be made about Mozambique. It gained independence from Portugal on 25 June 1975 and it is home to 29 million people with its bustling capital Maputo, known for 100 years until 1976 as Lourenço Marques. The usual African wildlife can be found in Mozambique in areas such as Reserva Especial de Maputo, Karingani Game Reserve and Banhine and Limpopo national parks. The advantage of these parks is that they have fewer visitors than their counterparts in neighbouring countries therefore more time and peace to admire Africa's famous wildlife. One piece of geography that makes Mozambique unique in this part of the world is its coastline. Being situated next to the Indian ocean means long white sandy beaches with calm waves and coconut and palm trees for miles on end. The country's beaches are a welcome alternative to the more crowded equivalents in South Africa. The simplicity and less development can make lying on a Mozambique beach more relaxing. However, being next to the ocean means it is susceptible to monsoons between October and March. The dry season being from April to September. Entering Mozambique will almost always be via Maputo international airport. Major airlines like Qatar airways and TAP Portugal land here. Overland entry is possible from South Africa and Eswatini with a rental vehicle, and Hertz SA certainly allows for that. Maputo has certain landmarks of interest:
Being a coastal city Maputo has long pleasant promenades along Avenida 10 de Novembro and Avenida da Marginal, the latter having access to sandy beaches. Shopping wise the best options are the malls like Maputo Shopping Centre and Baia Mall With nearly a fifth of the population being Muslim finding halal eateries and mosques is not too difficult. Most Muslims live in the north but in the capital African and Indian Muslims have settled over the years. Restaurants like Orca, 2020 Marhaba and Cantinho do Brasil Pastelaria to name but a few are halal, as well as the Galaxy Indian restaurant chain. There are countless mosques dotted around the city, many in and around the central part like Jumma masjid, Masjid Taqwa - Maputo's central mosque, Masjid Mohammad, Mesquita Quba and Masjid Bilal. Final note Even though driving across borders is possible like with Hertz SA, it is important to note that all the countries of the SADC drive on the left side of the road. So South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Lesotho, Eswatini and Mozambique drive on the same side as United Kingdom, Ireland, Cyprus, Malta, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, the Indian subcontinent and most of South East Asia. Why this is the case is anyone's guess but if you are not used to driving on that side or simply unaware, you have been warned. Otherwise plenty of memories can be made with happy driving in the vast wild expanses of southern Africa!
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A word of note to some who may have read my blog before, well certainly the 3-part My Eastern Adventure blog. After Google+ came to an end I decided to create a new site for my travel blog, and so this is it. The original blog can still be found at https://thetravelexplorer80.blogspot.com/. I suppose this is like a disclaimer, but I thought I should point it out in case anyone questioned the authenticity or possible plagiarism! The only blog entries I put on that site were all related to My Eastern Adventure
The Sultanate of Oman - the land at the end of the Arabian peninsula is quite the hidden gem. Oman has grown in popularity in recent years. With an abundance of nature at its disposal, it can seem as an alternative natural getaway from its glitzy, glamourous neighbour, the UAE, with its shopping malls and skyscrapers.
The nation's capital Muscat feels like a throwback to what Dubai looked like about 30 years ago. Muscat certainly has a uniqueness in that due to the lack of excess glass and concrete you feel like you are in a genuine Middle eastern city with its beautiful mountain backdrop, bustling old town of Mutrah, where the corniche and central souk can be found, and mosques and minarets, both large and small, dotted all over the city. Even though there aren't as many malls as there are across the border in neighbouring UAE or Saudi Arabia, Oman, and Muscat in particular, is fast catching up. Currently malls such as Oman Avenues, Muscat Grand and City Centre Muscat draw the shopping crowds looking for designer clothing and items, but the Mall of Oman in Muscat is set to rival Dubai's Mall of the Emirates when it is due to open in September 2021. When it comes to shopping however the Middle east has its unique markets in the shape of souks. Visiting the old centre of Mutrah is a must in Muscat. A walk along the Mutrah Corniche is lovely during sunset or at night where views of Mutrah Fort and the Riyam Incense Burner can be found. This large hilltop burner bellows out incense during special occasions such as Eid. Another major draw to Muscat is the Sultan Qaboos Grand mosque. There are actually many Sultan Qaboos mosques dotted around the country in all the major towns and cities, but this one in Muscat is the largest and perhaps the most opulent. Non-muslim visitors can visit daily except on Fridays before 1pm, and they are expected to dress appropriately as they should with any place of worship. The architecture is something to behold with the lines of symmetry, to witness how the designers line up the minarets with arches is quite spectacular. The mosque has a cafe and bookshop too. Arriving in Muscat is easy as most major airlines serve its new airport. Most visitors require a visa to enter Oman, which you apply online. Visas can be purchased at the airport on arrival but 1 Omani rial is added to the visa fee, and payment can be made by credit card or cash. Public transport is available as well as plenty of taxis. However, hiring a car in Oman gives a whole lot of independence exploring this wonderful country. Road conditions and driving standards in Oman are pretty decent by western standards, and with fuel stations a plenty and costs are usually around 10-20 baisha per litre, getting around is very easy. One hundred baisha equates to 1 Omani rial. The recommended time of day to drive is at night when the temperature is cooler, especially out along the desert roads towards Salalah beyond the mountain range. Daytime driving across the barren desert landscape can be very monotonous. Seeing the twinkling lights of other vehicles on the horizon can give something to focus on. Besides you wouldn't miss much during the night except endless sand across the flat plain. Incidentally, most travellers stop at Haima, which is the half point between Muscat and Salalah. A desert oasis that can be a welcome rest whilst travelling between Oman's first and second cities. From Haima you can travel to the seaside towns of Duqm and Ras Madrakah, the latter having the more pristine beaches but the former being a port has more facilities such as its own airport and international hotels. The beaches of Oman are simply stunning, especially along the south coast. From Al Hadd on the south eastern tip of the Arabian peninsula to Taqah just east of Salalah, white sandy beaches that kiss the Indian ocean can be found in huge abundance. Many of them you may find you're the only one on the beach. Also the roads from Al Hadd to the Yemeni border is fully sealed so it can easily be done in a 2-wheel drive vehicle. There are nice beaches along the country's east coast but they are more crowded in comparison. A heads up though in regards to the south coast highways. The roads cut through coastal desert and small towns and villages so traffic is scarce. There will be instances where you might not see another vehicle for 30 minutes and so the drive can be somewhat dull. This can be broken up by stopping along the numerous beaches along the route, and the lack of accommodation means camping is really the only overnight option. Nizwa Pretty much everyone who visits Nizwa comes to see the fort. Built in the 1650s, though the original structure has stood since the 12th century, it is one of Oman's most visited sights. With the Nizwa souq and surrounding shopping district one can easily spend at least half a day here. Also when it comes to shopping and you're looking for something designer or modern then you can head to Nizwa Grand Mall. Not as big as some of its Muscat and Salalah counterparts but for the region it is significant. About half hour drive west is Bahla fort. Less frequented but equally impressive and historically significant. The Sultan Qaboos mosque of Nizwa is quite a sight that can be seen from a distance from all directions. It gets busy and crowded on Fridays as normal but at other times it is very peaceful and can be visited with little to no crowds. Of course dressing appropriately is a must as with all religious complexes. You can visit towns and villages in the mountains near Nizwa. In fact the easiest to visit is Saiq. The only catch is you can only enter if you drive a 4WD vehicle, even though the road to Saiq and the streets around the town are all fully sealed. Visitors can either hire a 4WD taxi from Birkat or at the entry gate 7km north of Birkat. Once past the checkpoint though the views are spectacular. The most accessible ones are Jabal Al Akhdar, Terraced Fields and Diana Point, where Princess Diana visited in 1986. It's best to visit early to mid afternoon when the sun doesn't obscure the view as much. Salalah Oman's second city has plenty to offer, but can also be used as a convenient base to explore the south coast region. With good road and air links and an array of local and international hotels Salalah is very accessible to the curious traveller. Salalah is alot more spread out than Muscat, and this is noticeable as you enter Salalah from the north. The main highway connecting Muscat and Salalah, route 31, winds its way down to the coastal city from Thumrait in the north. The vastness of the city can be more appreciated when driving at night. The great expanse of glittering street lights from one side of the city to the other can be seen from various viewpoints along the routes into the city from the north, the best being Salalah City View near the village of Thissor. Salalah is usually used as a base to explore the surrounding area, especially during the Khareef, but the city has offerings of its own. The main sights around town are Al Balid Archaeological Site and the Frankicense museum, as well as the impressive Sultan Qaboos mosque in the old town. The palm tree Al Haffa beach can be accessed from the western exit of the Al Balid Archaeoloigcal site. It's best to go to Al Haffa beach at sunset where you can wonder between the palm trees and watch the sunset drop below the mountains in the west. And speaking of mountainous sunsets, another great beach to explore is Mughsail beach about 30 minutes drive west out of town. No palm trees here (in fact nearly all of Oman's beaches are treeless) but at the western end of the beach you can find the Marneef Cave and Blowholes. Eftalquot beach is rather an off the beaten track beach and is best reached using a 4WD vehicle, but if you can reach it safely the journey will be worth it with its unique tabletop mountain sunsets! When it comes to shopping there is abit of the old and abit of the new. There are the souks down in the old quarter of East Salalah and Salalah Al Wusta opposite the Sultan Qaboos mosque. The newer shopping experiences are in Salalah Gardens mall and the soon to be opened (sometime in early 2021) Salalah Grand mall, which is part of the grand mall series in Muscat and Nizwa. One of the major draws of Salalah and the Dhofar region is visiting during the Khareef, the Arabic colloquial term used to describe the southeastern monsoon, which occurs between June and September. The whole region during this time blossoms green, and both the people of the city and the surrounding mountains sigh a sense of relief as much needed rain falls during this period. As a result water in caves and waterfalls swell making spectacular hydro events. Dhofar region has plenty to offer. As mentioned there is an abundance of pristine beaches in and around Salalah but heading west you enter the mountainous region of Dhalqut where the highway winds its way up and down the mountains west of Mughsail beach and onto the Yemeni border. However, if driving to Dhalqut make sure to take your passport or GCC ID card, driving license and any vehicle rental documents if you're in a hire vehicle. There are two checkpoints along the way before reaching the Dhalqut district. It might seem a little daunting at first but the security staff will simply ask why you are visiting and take your and your vehicle's details. This is done at the first checkpoint but the same procedure might be performed at the next checkpoint about 20 minutes drive west. On the return to Salalah you just have to drive through. Once past the checkpoints you're in the mountainous region of Dhalqut high up above the majestic cliffs. Speaking of which the highlight of this district has got to be Shaat Oman - a clifftop viewpoint which in parts is precariously on the cliff edge! Be careful though because some parts further down the path are very narrow and not for the fainthearted. Nearby is the Shaat Sinkhole, a depression in the landscape that has been covered by overgrowth but can still be seen from the car park and observation deck. The road to Shaat Oman and the highway that cuts through the region is all fully sealed so access is very easy in any type of vehicle. North of Salalah are the mountains that lead to the plateau of what is the southern part of Rub Al Khali (Empty Quarter). This area is largely good for hiking. However, even though there are villages and hamlets dotted all over the rugged landscape it's best to go with a guide as any issues that might arise could involve language barriers. Of course if you speak the language then hiking in these parts can be quite exhilarating. I got the impression that the Dhofar region is like the Alps of Europe or Cote D'Azur in southern France, just less vegetation. East of Salalah is where you can appreciate nature. With the mountains, beaches and tributaries there are places you can visit within a day or two to escape the heat and traffic of the city. Firstly would be Ayn Razat, a small cave that's used mainly as a picnic spot for city weekenders. The cave isn't that big. In fact it's more of a natural deep concave than one that leads into darkness. During the Khareef though the adjacent lily pond swells to become a small lake and good for lakeside picnics. Another good picnic spot is Darbat waterfall. To access the falls you have walk along the wadi edge from the car park, which is more like a hike than a walk as there are plenty of rocks to climb over. But once there you should take a dip in the pool at the base of the falls. Pretty much every Islamic country has Friday as their weekend day. Just like Sabbath for Jews on Saturday and Trinity for Christians on Sunday, Muslim's holy day of the week is Friday, or Jummah. Public places and parks tend to get heaving with visitors on this day, especially after lunch. So if crowds are not your thing just remember to avoid public spaces on Fridays in Islamic countries. And Darbat waterfall is no exception when it comes to weekend crowds. This is the same for the nearby Wadi Darbat nature reserve. Here you can hire boat trips to travel along the wadi, and sometimes see camels wading in the wadi to cool off. However, the best place to spot wild camels and donkeys is around Dhalqut near the Yemen border. Further east you can find the spectacular Jabal Samhan viewpoint. From here the vastness of the plains east of here and the Indian ocean can be appreciated. If lucky enough sometimes sea fog lingers over the plains below and if you arrive early this phenomenon can be witnessed. Be warned though, Fridays it can get very busy with selfie obsessed Instagramers! I would recommend visiting mid to late afternoon as earlier the sun can obscure the wonderful view. Continuing east along the coastal highway towns such as Mirbat, Sadah and Hasik can give some welcome breaks and refueling opportunities. But the viewpoints along the road are spectacular, mainly from Sadah to Ash Shuwaymiyyah, where the road at times skirts the oceanic beaches, and at others climbs high above the cliffs. In fact at its highest point it reaches the Canyon Viewpoint (clearly signposted). Views from here are simply amazing and an essential stop along the highway. Incidentally there is a checkpoint just north of Hasik. It's not as stringent as the one towards Dhalqut but as always when driving through Oman it's best to carry all forms of confirmatory documents like passports, ID cards, drivers license, and hire firm documents if driving a rental vehicle. It can also be handy to carry a pocket translator. My recommendation would be to go east to west. When visiting Dhalqut aim to arrive around midday and return in the afternoon. However, after the checkpoints driving along the road back towards Salalah is quite an experience. From the top of the mountain you can see the lights of Salalah in the distance. Also, even though you can't see them, the headlights of vehicles going up and down the highway look like hidden moving lanterns and dragonflies on the mountainside. The same goes for going east. Start from Ayn Razat then go Darbat waterfall, Wadi Darbat, Jabal Samhan, Canyon Viewpoint and finish at the beaches of Ash Shuwaymiyyah. It can be done in one day but with all the stoppages and photo ops it might transpire to at least a two day trip. All in all Oman has alot to offer. Vibrant cities, unspoilt pristine beaches and deserts like western Australia, mountains like the Alps, cliffs that resemble the north Mediterranean coast. The only difference really is there is little to no vegetation. For Muslim travellers food is not too hard to find as being an Islamic country everything is halal and mosques are plentiful. Perhaps the only drawback is when driving. Standards are reasonable compared to the West with very good road surfaces, but checkpoints can pop up anytime so it's important to carry all ID and supporting documents with you. Other than that Oman is certainly a destination not to be missed.
Perth - the capital of Western Australia, or Wazza as some of the locals refer to it, is home to over 2 million people. It is the only major city in the territory of Western Australia, and shares a coastline with the Indian ocean.
As it shares an oceanic coastline it has plenty of beaches to offer within the city limits as well as on the outskirts. The best beaches really are Fremantle, Cootesloe and Leighton as they can be easily reached by public transport as well as by car. Further afield there are great beaches around Rockingham and Mandurah, and if going to Rockingham you can visit Cape Peron, which is good for swimming and short hikes. One of the biggest draws though is Rottnest Island. Referred to as Wadjemup by the local Noongar aboriginal people, Rottnest island lies 18km west of Fremantle. It is accessed by ferry from Perth and is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. As it is largely a nature reserve cars are not allowed on the island so visitors arrive by ferry as foot passengers or with their bicycle. It's around 11km from end to end (19 square kilometres) and mostly flat so walking or cycling shouldn't be too strenuous. The island is certainly a place to visit when in Perth. With its seafront location and mostly flat landscape cycling is a good way to explore Perth and its surroundings. The city region has shared pedestrian and cycle routes called Principal Shared Paths or PSPs. They are fully paved with markings to separate users in each direction. They usually run along highways or railway lines creating an alternative way to travel or commute. Current and future PSPs can be found here. My favourite is the 70km PSP that runs alongside the Kwinana highway from Perth CBD to the intersection with Pinjarra Road near Mandurah. The southern half of the route is somewhat quieter and prone to wildlife sitings - and yes that includes snakes! Point to note, the prevailing winds come from the Southern ocean and therefore from a southwesterly direction. This I noticed when I rode from Kwinana rail station back to Perth. The wind speed and direction can affect the speed and effort of your ride. As with aeroplanes it's better to have a tailwind rather than headwind and so I recommend starting your cycle tour from the south and head north back towards Perth. Also if heading north out of Perth you'll have a tailwind as opposed to heading south towards the city. You are permitted to carry bicycles on board trains in Perth, and most if not all stations have lifts. There are a few cycle hire stores in the city, and some hotels rent bikes out too, but I would recommend Cycle Centre bicycle shop on the corner of Hay street and Hill street. Here you can rent for short and long term hires and the bikes are kept in good maintenance. As with all major cities there is always a large park that's used as the 'lungs of the city', and Kings Park is no exception. Located just west of the CBD the 400 hectare city park consists of more than just grass and trees. It consists of the Botanic Gardens on Mount Eliza, State War Memorial with fantastic views of the city, especially at night. There is even an open air cinema at the western end of the park. However, what makes this park unique is two-thirds of it is classed as native bushland, so you get an Australian forest experience within the city limits. The park is sometimes dubbed as the bushland in the city. And as the park is so big the regular city noises can in parts be drowned out and so you can feel you are actually out in the Aussie bush. Its size gives opportunities to go hiking, as well as walking, jogging, running and so on. The main shopping and dining thoroughfare is along and between Hay street and Murray street. A gem of a diner is Grand Lane Fish House behind Barrack street, which can be accessed from either Murray street mall or Wellington street. Excellent seafood cuisine, both grilled and fried, it's definitely one not to miss. Also in recent decades there has been an influx of people from mainly south east Asia and the Asian far east. This in turn has created a melting pot of oriental cuisine to tantalise the senses. Muslim travellers will find options along William street and James street. I tried a Turkish dish called Gozleme for the first time at a place on James street. It's similar to a quesadilla but without the cheese. Something certainly worth a try. There are a few mosques in Perth, with the main one being Perth mosque on the corner of William street (main entrance) and Robinson avenue. Another nice mosque is the Riverdale Islamic Centre in Burswood.
After traversing across the southern half of Australia by rail I decided to try my luck at driving across, so a few years later that's what I did.
Just like last time I started from Perth, Western Australia. Not because that's where I started from last time round, but driving from west to east makes more sense as going the other way you will have the sun in your face (not great for a roadtrip!). However, on this trip I wanted to see more of what Perth and the surrounding area had to offer. Last time I plonked myself down for one night before catching the train the next morning. This time I had more time on my hands and four wheels to go explore. Before heading east across the continent I wanted to see what Western Australia, or Wazza as the locals call it, had to offer. However, considering Wazza consists of roughly a third of Australia with a total land area of 2,527,013 square kilometres (975,685 sq mi) I clearly wasn't going to explore the entire territory! Inspite of the vastness of western Australia there are places to visit within a day from Perth such as Rottnest Island, Wave Rock, and Cape Leeuwin. The beaches of Western Australia are some of the most unspoilt anywhere on earth. With a population of 2.6 million majority of beaches in this territory are pretty much empty and you can easily find yourself alone on a white sandy beach with the whole of the Indian ocean to admire gorgeous sunsets. Sparsely populated countries tend to have alot of unspoilt natural beauty, and Australia is certainly one of those countries. Due to time constraints I took a trip to Geraldton. There are two main routes to get there, but I would recommend going up route 60. This road travels along the coastline with interesting points like Lancelin sand dunes and Wedge Point lookout , and beaches like Hangover Bay and Kangaroo point. There is an abundance of lookouts and pristine beaches along route 60 you'd be silly to take an alternative. There isn't much to see in Geraldton except perhaps Point Moore lighthouse. Generally the town is used as a stopover. There are plenty of eateries and restaurants in the esplanade area. My favourite was Geraldton Turkish Kitchen. If you have a Muslim diet then this is the place to go to satisfy your hunger. The next day I returned to Perth but by taking an alternative route via Mount Magnet. Route 123 between Geraldton and Mount Magnet is a pleasant drive as there are very few vehicles that plough that route. Not seeing another car for half an hour was a new experience for me considering the country I come from - the UK - you would be lucky to not see another car for 30 seconds, let alone 30 minutes. Also when you reach the town of Yalgoo a big sign says 'Welcome to the Outback'. An opportune moment for an envious selfie. My guide to Perth can be found here Even though this trip was all about driving from west to east, I wanted to find out what lies beneath - in other words what can be found along the south coast. Cape Leeuwin and the lighthouse tucked away in the southwest corner of the Australian mainland is a good spot. Here the Indian and Southern oceans intertwine and southern right whales can be spotted off shore during the warmer months between October and April. Further along the coast is the town of Albany. Surprisingly more to the town than meets the eye. The main draws being Torndirrup National Park and Albany Wind Farm. The former having plenty of secluded beaches and natural scenery. Also there is the Peak Trail - a 4km roundtrip trail to pretty much the bottom tip of the park. However, as not too many people venture along it wildlife can be spotted along the well-maintained trail. And speaking of trails, a major draw to Albany is the wind farm. This farm is roughly the end of the near 1000km Bibbulmun Track. The farm itself has walking trails weaving between the clean energy generators, and listening to each stroke of the enormous blades spinning is quite a unique spectacle. About 60m south from the main car park is another car park with some steep steps that go down to the rocky beach. Other points of interest around town include Mount Melville Lookout, Middleton beach and Mount Clarence Memorial. My next stop was Esperance. Another seaside town along the south coast. The main attractions here being the beaches along Twilight Beach Road and Pink Lake. This lake has a pink hue on the surface due to the algae, hence the name. The Esperance Stonehenge is an interesting spot as it is merely a modern replica of the stone age monolith circle structure in southern England. It doesn't really hold the same experience as being at the real Stonehenge, but perhaps being on the other side of the world it might be the closest some people have gotten to the real monument. The main draw around the Esperance region is Lucky Bay in Cape Le Grand national park. There is an entrance fee to the park and it can be accessed along a sealed road. The highlight of this place is being able to interact with a clan of beach dwelling kangaroos who are so used to humans they hardly scatter away when they see one. In fact sometimes they will come up to you when having a coffee at the only cafe on the beach, or sometimes even sunbathe next to where you are sunbathing! It's perhaps one of the few places in Australia where you can get up close and personal with wild kangaroos. A unique experience. From Esperance it was time to do what I came to Australia to do, well on this trip - drive to the other side across the Eyre highway. The Eyre highway is an epic 1660km self drive Australian classic route from Norseman in Western Australia to Port Augusta in South Australia. Tackling this journey you will get a real sense of Australia's pioneering history, and experience the real outback. There is plenty to see along this grand route such as the stunning dramatic sea cliffs of the Great Australian Bight. There are 3 official lookouts along the entire stretch, but if you have a 4WD vehicle there are several off the beaten track lookouts along the way too. All the lookouts are south of the highway, but be warned some of the more remote locations are further away from the road than others and not advisable to drive during or after wet weather if you lack the off road experience. There are roadhouses and motels along the route, or equally you can camp as well. It's advised not to drive at night as Australian outback roads are insanely dark and as a result wildlife tend roam in the middle of the road. Unfortunately that does lead to sights of roadkill, more often than not caused by roadtrains ploughing along at high speed. One of the stretches along the highway where high speeds can be done is along the world's longest straight stretch of road at 146km in length between just south of Balladonia and Caiguna - dubbed the 90 mile straight. It takes about an hour to cover, but sometimes more as traffic is stopped so the Royal Flying Doctors Service can use parts of it as a landing strip. Eucla is the last habitat before the WA-SA border if heading east. About 5km south of town along a dusty road is the Old Telegraph station and Eucla jetty. Incidentally vehicle inspections are performed when travelling between Western and South Australia. However, if travelling eastbound the vehicle inspection is in Ceduna, but if heading westbound the vehicle inspection is done at Border Village on the WA-SA border. Here also the time difference changes to South Australia being 45 minutes behind Western Australia. Once you enter SA you're in the Nullarbor (the Treeless plain) and from the WA-SA border to the Nullarbor Roadhouse 184km away the road runs parallel to the Great Australian Bight and the Bunda Cliffs that make up the Bight as far as the eye can see. Just to note roadhouses are essentially petrol stations with basic hotel/motel facilities and restaurants. They are a welcome break on all Australian highways, but ensure you have enough fuel and supplies to cover the distances between each roadhouse. By the time I reached Port Augusta I was somewhat relieved in that it was good to finally arrive somewhere that had all the usual comforts of town or city life. Don't get me wrong driving across the Nullarbor and everything the sights along the Eyre highway has to offer is wonderful (I wouldn't have a problem repeating the trip) but after 3 days and over 1600km it was nice to take advantage of home comforts like ordering a takeaway pizza from Pizza Hut! The closest habitat to what I would consider a town or city along the Eyre highway would perhaps be Ceduna. Actually the vehicle inspection in Ceduna was quicker than I had anticipated. The inspector simply asked where I drove from, checked the boot and saw my travelling gear, and let me continue my journey. It was great that it did not take too long to inspect my car but the fact that he didn't check for any prohibited items like certain foodstuffs made me think the inspector did not do his job properly. In any case I was just glad to make it to the other side all the way from Perth. The general rule when travelling interstate is eat or bin fresh fruit. Dry or canned items are usually allowed but always check before crossing any state border. Whilst in Port Augusta I couldn't help but notice it was also the terminus for the Stuart highway that connects the town with Darwin and Alice Springs, some 2834km of road. I figured as I'm here why not see what can be seen along the Stuart highway. Unfortunately due to time constraints I couldn't travel the length of the Stuart but from Port Augusta there are places to visit within a day or two such as Lake Hart and the opal mining town of Andamooka. Roxby Downs is also a nice little break away from the regular Port Augusta. The scenery along the majority of the Stuart highway is very typical of the Aussie outback - flat, largely treeless, and rustic red conjuring up images of the outback I always had and aspired to see. The area around Port Augusta has a large number of wild kangaroo, so spotting one, especially after it has rained, is quite easy. From here I continued my journey onto Adelaide and finished in Melbourne. The landscape changes from a desert climate to a more temperate climate with sweeping wheat fields and wine country. By the time I reached Adelaide i got quite used to rural Australian life and outback scenery that city life almost seemed alien to me. Adelaide was the first major city I visited since Perth about 10 days earlier. Adelaide Adelaide certainly reminded me of Perth in that it was rather spacious and very cycle friendly. Overall probably more green than Perth with the number of open spaces and parks in the city. Cycling is very easy with the countless cycle lanes and routes around the city and along the beachfront. My recommended route would be to ride along the Karrawirra Parri/Torrens river to travel between the city centre and beachfront at Glenelg. Along the route you can visit Adelaide Zoo, Adelaide Oval and St Peter's Cathedral. It's easy to ride a bike around Adelaide as the city is predominantly very flat except in the east of the city. Getting an e-bike is not necessary but some good ones can be rented from Cit-E-Bike bicycle rental near Whitmore Square/Iparrityi. As a Muslim traveller I had to find halal options, and there are plenty along Prospect Road in the Kilburn/Blair Athol suburb. There is a large number of Uyghur Chinese muslims in Adelaide and so finding that type of cuisine is seldom difficult. My personal favourites were Nava Uyghur restaurant on Prospect Road. If that is out of your way you can always try Tangritah Uyghur restaurant on Grote Street in the city centre. This contemporary restaurant is conveniently located in Chinatown opposite Adelaide Central market. Adelaide mosque is near Whitmore Square, with the main entrance on Little Gilbert street, but the car park is accessed via Logan street. Adelaide for me was surprisingly pleasant. It reminded me of Perth with its green spaces and lovely beachfront. When it comes to riverfronts though I would probably hand the winner to Perth. The area around the Swan river in Perth is more spacious so creates a more relaxing environment, but the cycle route along the Karrawirra Parri in Adelaide pips Perth for that. |
AuthorBased in the UK I love to travel and had the ambition to set foot on all six main continents, hence the name The Six Footer Archives
May 2021
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